Tie sewing machine



Nov. 4, 1958 A. w. ORR

TIE SEWING MACHINE 8 Sheets-Shed 1 Filed April 21, 1954 ONT Ill l. "I mINVENTOR. (Af.

A drey $54 9.- HTTOR/YE) Nov 4, 1958 A. w. ORR 2,358,784

' TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 wwv wh mu wwNW a d Nov. 4, 1958 w, QR 2,858,784

TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 8 Sheets- Sheet 3 INVENTOR.Audrey W Orr fiT'TOR IVEX 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 Nov. ,4; 1958 Filed Avril 21,1954 19 TT RIYE y Nov. 4, 1958 w.- ORR v 2,858,784

TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 1/4 I r 1/4 420a f 02 1/45 0 E Q lHlh. [II'IHI] INVENTOR.

Huorey' Orr Nov. 4, 1958 A. w; ORR. 2,858,784

TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 .Ffgifi jFf li1 i5 l4 INVENTOR- gudne Orrgz'zf v elgl ATTOR NEY Nov. 4, 1958 A. w. ORR2,858,784

' TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 s Shegts-Sheet "r "lg'lilINVENTOR. Audrey 14/. Orr

AT TORNEY Nov. 4, 1958 w, ORR 2,858,784

TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 v 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 IN VEN TOR.

HTTOR/VE) Huq'r'ey W Orr United States Patent-O TIE SEWING MACHINEAudrey W. Orr, New York, N. Y. Application April 21, 1954, Serial No.424,657 3 Claims. (Cl; 112-174) This invention relates to improvementsin sewing machines and the like.

An object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved sewingmachine which is particularly adapted for use in connection with themanufacture of neckties and the like.

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improvedsewing machine of the character described, in which special types oflongitudinal necktie assembly stitches may be made in one rapid,continuous pass of the needle, while the fabric remains stationary, theentire stitch forming operation being thus completed upon one forwardmotion of the needle, and its consequent retraction to initial position.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improvednecktie sewing machine which forms the. characteristic looselongitudinal necktie assembly stitch or the like, by a single pass ofthe special elongated threaded needle through the necktie fabricelements to be thus assembled, means being provided for forming thefabric into a series of successive undulations or crimps, the fabricbeing gently but firmly pressed into shaped hollow recesses by crimpingelements and held in such formed undulations while the needle passestherethrough, so that at the moment of stitching, the fabric sectionbeing stitched is stationary, automatic means being provided for movingthe crimping. elements into and out of position as the needle movesforward on its needle carrier or support.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improvednecktie sewing or stitching machine, in which. there is a plurality'ofcrimper elements adapted for limited extension motion into and out ofengagement with the hollow crimper bar recesses on the stationarycrimper bar, the machine including a cam which moves with the needlecarrier, so as to gently crimp the necktie fabric into the recesses ofthe crimper bar in successiv undulations, one undulation being formedafter the other, rather than trying to form them all at once and undulystretching or deforming the fabric being worked upon.

Still a further object of the invention is to provide a novel andimproved form of actuating and control means so that the entireoperation is carried out without the need for intervening control by theoperator, so that the operator has both hands free to guide the fabricwhile the seam is being completed, and the work is automaticallyreleased when the end of the rearward motion is reached. 1 I

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improvednecktie sewing and stitching machine of the character described, whichis simple in design, inexpensive to manufacture, contains a minimum ofparts, and is readily maintained in operating condition, all parts beingquite rugged and capable of withstanding considerable wear and tear.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improvednecktie stitching machine of the character described, which isrelatively compact, and will fit into a 1 moved up into "ice small floorspace, little more than an ordinary sewing machine, and thus allows itto be installed in any shop, either singly, for a small operation, or inmultiples, for a large operation, being very economical in use of floorspace.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machineof the typedescribed, which may be operated by relatively unskilled andinexperienced labor, thus eliminating any need for a longapprenticeship, and avoiding the consequent'spoilage of Work and wastageof time and materials.-

Still a further object of the invention is to provide a machine forquickly and easily forming a necktie stitch of the loose stitch type astaught by U. S: Patents 1,447,090, and 1,448,453, issued to JesseLangsdorf in 1923, to which reference is made for details of suchconstruction, particularly for joining thenecktie outer fabric or body,and the lining together by a continuous thread loosely engaging both,and knotted at both ends.

These and other objects and advantages of the invention will becomeapparent from the following descriptionvof a preferred embodimentthereof, as illustrated in the accompanying drawings, forming parthereof, and in which, 1

Figure 1 is a top plan view of a machine according to the invention.-

Figure 2 is a rightend elevational view of the machine shown in Figurel, as seen from the right end of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a front elevational view showing the machine of Figure 1 asseen looking toward the lower edge of the machine of Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a fragmentary front elevational view of the machinesimilarto the view of Figure 3, except that it is on a larger scale, and partlybroken out to show the coristruction thereof, and shows the machine withthe needle carrier and cam in a partially advanced position, some of thecrimper elements being elevated into crimping engagement with the teethrecesses of the crimper bar.

"Figure. 5 is a fragmentary sectional elevational viewtaken'substantially on plane 5-5 of Figure 3.

Figure 6 is afragmentary sectional elevational view taken substantiallyon plane 6-6 of Figure 4, and showing also the needle carrier andassociated parts.

Figure 7 is afragmentary top plan view taken substantially on viewingplane 7--7 of Figure 6 within the presence of the top cover plate, withparticular reference to the needle and its supporting means.

Figure 8 is a fragmentary front elevational view showing the crimperbar, and some of the crimper elements engagement therewith, with thefabric crimped therein in' undulations, and the needle indicated institching engagement therethrough.

Figure 9 stantially' on plane also in fragment.

Figure 10 is a fragmentary front elevational detail view showing partsrelating particularly to the details of the foot pedal return mechanism,the view being taken substantially on plane Ill-40 of Figure 11.

Figure 11 is an elevational view taken on plane 1111 of Figure 10,showing the parts and being otherwise in fragment.

Figure 12 is a front elevational detail view taken on plane 12 1'2 ofFigure 6, and illustrating the elongated needle in its needle carrier,and the associated cam and cam housing as a unitary assembly, the viewbeing in fragment, and partly broken out.

Figure 13 is'a left end elevational view of the parts shown in Figure 12Figure 14 is a right end elevational view of the parts shown in Figure12.

Figure 15 is a fragmentary 9-9 of Figure 8, this view being longitudinalsectional eleis a sectional elevational view taken sub-- in plan showingthe parts associated with the fabric guide means, the view being takensubstantially on plane 16-16 of Figure 3.

Figure 17 is a front elevational fragmentary detail view taken on aplane similar to that of Figure 16, and showing the tripper device bywhich the fabric guide is returned to initial outstanding position asshown in full lines in Figure 16 at the end of the return stroke of themachine.

Figure 18 is a fragmentary detail bottom front elevational view showingthe brake elements of the device.

Figure 19 is a left side elevational view of the device shown in Figure18.

Figure 20 is a bottom plan detail view taken substantiallly on plane2020 of Figure 3, showing the motor,

worm gear housing, and associated speed change and direction change conedrive elements.

Figure 21 is a top plan view taken substantially on plane 21-21 ofFigure 22, showing a modified form of cloth guide device for use on themachine.

Figure 22 is a transverse sectional plan view taken substantially onplane 22-22 of Figure 21.

Figure 23 is fragmentary front elevational view on plane 23-23 of Figure21.

In connection with the fabrication and assembly of neckties, the variousoperations are necessarily carried out with the greatest speed andavoidance of lost motion, in order that the ultimate cost of the necktiein labor and materials will be at a minimum, while the quality of thefinished necktie is maintained at a satisfactorily high standard. Use ofhand stitching in quality neckties must unavoidably add to the laborcharges involved, and the present invention makes use of machine workeven in connection with operations which could not heretofore he carriedout with the required degree of speed and accuracy needed for massproduction. In the present device, the fabric of the necktie, which isto be stitched, is held in a first clamp, and then successively engagedin a series of clamps, all tending to not only engage the fabric, butalso to form the same into a continuous series of undulations,preparatory to stitching. I The stitching operation is carried out bymeans of a needle carrier employing a long needle, which is threadedcontinuously, and remains so threadedduring the use of the machine aslong as thread remains on the thread cone. The needle carrier isarranged for reciprocal motion, forward to stitch, and rearwardly todisengage from the fabric after the stitch is formed, there being notone but a series of successive stitches formed through the undulatedfabric of the necktie prior to withdrawal. The needed knots are formedat the beginning and end of the stitch series, and the thread severed inpreparation for the next successive stitching series and operation. Inaid of the advance of the needle, so that there is no substantialbending or deformation of the needle which is quite elongated, a seriesof needle supports are provided, so that the needle is supported atintervals along its length to prevent undue bending, the needle supportsbeing constructed so as to permit flexure only to an insubstantialdegree, and yet permitting yielding of the needle supports angularlyabout their pivotal support members as' the needle is advanced orretracted.

The needle carrier also is secured to a pair of cams which move alongtherewith, so that as the needle is advanced the cams elevate a seriesof crimper elements or teeth, the outer ends of which are moved intoengagement with the crimper grooves of a crimper bar, and thus to crimpint othe grooves the undulated portions of the necktie fabric just priorto passage of the needle therethrough. As the needle passestherethrough, the operator is thereafter enabled to grasp the outer endof the fabric, and pull it taut, after the needle is retracted,

so as to retain both the thread and the fabric in stitched positions,for knotting at each end of the thread section covering the particularfabric length involved. As the needle is retracted, the cam which isalso carried with the needle on the needle carrier, is retracted,allowing the crimper elements to drop to their lowermost positions, andthus freeing themselves from the fabric and the grooves of the crimperbar.

The forward and reverse motion of the various parts in unison with theelongated needle is controlled as described in the specification,particularly by means of a pair of forward and reverse foot pedals, andsuch other controls as may be desired, in accord with the teaching ofthe invention. A minimum of parts is needed, and such parts are quiterugged. Lubrication is provided in accordance with known standards asneeded. Thus the stitching of neckties is permitted without involved andcumbersome machinery, and with the utmost in simplicity and speed, andhence at a minimum in cost.

In order to understand clearly the nature of the invention, and the bestmeans for carrying it out, reference may now be had to the drawings, inwhich like numerals denote similar parts throughout the several views.

As shown in Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5, there is a main base or platform 10forming a main table top and having a lower surface 12 spaced from itsupper surface 14, and supported on leg members 15 and 16 the ends ofwhich are engaged with flanges 18 and 20 at their upper and lower ends,for engaging the table top 10 and the floor 22 as needed. The table top10 may be made of suitable material such as wood in substantialthickness, or other materials may be used as available or desired, andis fairly long between its front and rearward edges 24 and 26, and broadbetween its left and right side edges 28 and 30 as seen best in Figure2.

A rearward table top 32 is carried at its forward edge 34 on a lateralbeam 36 resting on the rearward edge 26 of the lower table top orplatform 10, and extends rearwardly to rearward edge 38, being carriedby rear legs 40 having enlarged flanges 42 and 44 at its upper and lowerends, for engaging respectively the table top 32 and the floor 22 asshown. As seen best in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, a number of brackets46, three being shown, have their bases 48 disposed upon and secured tothe upper surface 14 of the main base or table top 10 by means of screws50 or the like, so as to extend thereabove on their upstanding bracketlegs 52, and bent over integrally at horizontal legs 54, for beingsecured by means of screws 56 to the upper surface of the crimper bar58.

The crimper bar 58 is of substantial length between its front and rearends 60 and 62, which extend longitudinally of the machine, and is ofsubstantial width between its left and right edges 64 and 66, and hassubstantial thickness between its upper and lower surfaces 68 and 70. Asseen best in Figures 1, 3, 4 and 5, the crimper bar 58 as shown, has aseries of consecutive crimper recesses 72, which are downwardly open,and extend laterally between edges 64 and 66 as seen in Figure 5. Figure8 shows the .edgewise contour of the crimper recesses 72 in somewhat alarger scale, and also the contours of the upper edges of the crimperelements in engagement therein with the necktie fabric therebetween inundulated crimped position therein. As seen in Figure 5, the upper edgesor margins 74 and 76 may be beveled somewhat to avoid sharp edges asshown. Similarly, a downwardly open longitudinal groove 80, as seen inFigure 5, may be formed through all the walls of the crimper recesses 72of the crimper bar 58, to allow extension therethrough of the elongatedneedle 84 when the needle is in forward or retractive motion asexplained hereinbelow.

A number of crimpers or crimper members 86, one for each of the recesses72 inthe crimper bar 58, are

provided, as shown in the various views, particularly in Figure 4, wherethey are shown in edgewise view in various dispositions. Such crimpermembers 86 are also seen in somewhat greater detail on a larger scale inFigure 5, and in Figures 8 and 9. From those views, it is seen that thecrimpers 86 each are constructed with a pair of side bars or legs 90 and92, which are mutually parallel and interspaced, being interconnected atthe top by the top rail or crimper bar edge member 94, so as to define aspace therebetween as at 96. A curtain wall or plate 98 interconnectsthe upper ends of the bars 90 and 92, and also the rail 94, so as toform a rigid assembly as seen best in Figures 8 and 9. The bifurcatedcrimpers 86 have small stub shafts 99 set into bores formed in theirlower ends 102, the walls of the bars 90 and 92 being recessed at 104 toreceive the rollers or wheels 106 which thus extend below the lowersurfaces of the bars 90 and 92, and allow the entire crimper assembliesto ride on the rollers.

At their upper ends, the crimpers are formed preferably with convergentfaces 108 and 110, and are smoothly rounded at their location ofintersection which thus forms the rounded abutment edge or blade edge112, which is shaped somewhat to interfit smoothly with the recesses 72in the crimper bar 58 when inserted therein as shown in Figures 4, 8 and9, with the fabric 114 crimped therebetween in successive undulations asshown. The crimper elements 86 are ground smooth on all surfaces, sothat where they abut each other, there will be a minimum of frictionbetween adjacent crimper members 58.

An opening 118 is formed in the plate 98 of the crimpers, to retain theupper end of the biasing spring 120, which is a tension spring biasingeach of the crimper members 58 downwards, being secured at its lower end122 to an abutment or opening 124 in the bottom plate 126 of the mainhousing 128. From Figures 5 and 6, it is seen that the main housing 128has its bottom or floor plate 126 extending across and secured to thelower flanges 130 of the side walls 132 and 134, which in turn have topflanges 136 and 138 integral therewith and parallel to the lower flanges130. There is thus defined inside the main housing, the main housingchamber 140 for the accommodation of the various parts herein described,such as the crimper members 58, the needle carrier and cam assembly 142,and the like.

The needle carrier and cam assembly 142 is shown in further detail inFigures 12, 13 and 14, and also in Figures 4, 5 and 6. As seen therein,it includes a pair of side walls 144 and 146, which are interconnectedby a downwardly extending channel member or floor member 148 havingflanges 150 secured to the side walls'144 and 146 as shown. A pair ofcam rails 158 are secured to the inner surfaces of the walls 144 and146, as shown, to project inwardly therefrom, and thus form cam railssupporting the rollers 106 of the crimper members 90 when they are inengagement therewith, as in Figure 4. From Figures 4, 12, 8 and 9, it isseen that the cam 158 is horizontal from its leftward end 160,substantially to location 162, at which it commences to dip smoothlydownwardly in a rightward direction, and ultimately becomes tangent tothe edge 164 of the main housing when it reaches location 166 of the camrails, and thus is at the intersection of the ends of the cam rails withthe rightv end edge 168 of the needle carrier and cam housing 142. Asthe needle carrier and cam housing 142 moves rightwardly, as seen inFigure 4, it is seen that it lifts successively, each of the crimpers 86in a smooth manner, sufiiciently to engage them successively with therecesses 72 of the crimper bar 58, since the crimper rollers 106 ride onthe upcurved cam rails 158, in the manner shown in Figures 8 and 9, withthe fabric 114 therebetween. Hence it is seen that the fabric is clampedfirmly in undulations as shown, without wrinkling or stretching, sincethere is this successive crimping in formmg each undulation or wavethereof from left to right as seen in Figures 4 and 8. At the same time,it is seen that the needle carrier has carried with it the long needle84, which moves therewith to the right. The needle 84 is quite long, asshown, and has its rightward end bent leftward as seen at 170, for beingfirmly clamped in the needle clamp head 172, which is bifurcated at itsupper end for this purpose, to receive and clamp the needle end. Theforward or pointed end 174 of the needle, has an eye 176 formed thereinto receive the thread 178 from the spool 180 contained in the threadcompartment 182 in the main housing, as seen in Figure 3.

The thread compartment 182 is provided with a floor 183 supported byside walls 181 and 185, which in turn are secured to the underside ofthe top wall 32 or other suitable supporting means, or by means ofsuitable brackets. A large spool 180 of thread is thus contained in thecompartment 182, for extension through the eye of the needle as at 176,and thus may be mounted either stationary in the thread compartment, andthe thread guided vertically thereabove to unwind readily therefrom, orthe spool 180 may be mounted for rotation about a vertical axis, and thethread pulled off therefrom as the spool turns.

As seen best in Figure 6, the needle carrier clamp 172 has one'or morescrews 173 threadedly extending across the bifurcations in which theneedle end is clamped, so as to permit either tightening the clampingaction, or releasing it as desired. From Figure 12 it is seen that thespacer web channel 148 does not extend rightwardly very far, its endwall edge being only as far as location 149, so that the walls 144 and146 of the channel needle carrier and cam assembly 142 areinterconnected at this rearward end portion. In this manner, there is nointerference with forward motion of the assembly 142 when the needle isto be advanced to the right as seen in Figure 4. From Figure 6, it isseen that the needle carrier 172 has its base portion enlarged as at179, and screws 181 extend through aligned openings in the base 179 andthe abutting portions of the walls 144 and 146, to secure the needlecarrier 172 to the walls to move together.

Since the needle 84 is quite long, it is necessary preferably to supportit along its length at intervals, and this is easily accomplished bymeans of a series of spaced needle support and guide members 400 carriedpivotally on upstanding pivot pins 402, which in turn extend throughaligned vertical openings 404 in the horizontal flanges 206 ofupstanding spaced upper housing walls 200 and 202 as seen best in Figure6. The pins 402 also extend through the flanges 488 of the cover channelmember 410, the central web 412 of which is elevated somewhat to definea downwardly open channel chamber or passageway 414 which protects theneedle from exposure and protects the parts from dust and dirt. Each ofthe needle support and guide members 400 is shaped as seen best inFigures 6 and 7, with parallel sides 401, and up standing spring supportpins 416 extending out of their uppensurfaces and movable therewith, forengaging the opposite ends of the tension springs 418, there being onesuch spring for each pair of such needle guide and support members 400.It is thus seen from Figures 8 and 9 that they also have lateral notches420 or grooves which are substantially horizontal, to accommodate theneedle as it moves therethrough, the jaw members 400 being capable ofpivotal motion about their pivot pins 402 to allow the needle to slidetherethrough, and the springs 418 tending to restore them to their restpositions shown in full lines in Figure 7. In this manner there is goodsupport along the length of the needle 84, without hampering its freemovement while forming the stitch.

Referring now to Figure 5, it is seen that there is an inner guidechannel 422 with a floor web or wall 424 secured in any suitable mannerto the main floor wall 126, as by screws 426, and that this channel hasupstanding side walls 428 and 430'the outer surfaces of which are 7spaced only sufiiciently to extend smoothly but without binding, betweenthe depending legs 90 and 92 of the crimper members 86, thus maintainingtheir alignment, and guiding the crimper members 86 in their limitedvertical motion as the cam rails 158 move therealong to elevate ordepress the crimper members.

As shown, the needle carrier base 179, in Figure 6, has a cable clamp432 secured thereto by means of screws 434, and has an opening 436formed therethrough to receive the pull cable 438 which is thus clampedtightly thereto for movement with the base 179. From Figures 3 and 4, itis seen that the pull cable 438 has its various portions extending overpulleys 226 carried on shaft 224, pulley 222 carried on shaft 220,pulley 216 carried on shaft 218, and pulley 234 carried on shaft 236.Pulleys 226, 222, and 218 are mounted in the main frame of the machinein any suitable space, the shafts being carried on suitable mountingscarried by the frame walls as shown and being thus stationary. Thepulley 234 however, is mounted on shaft 236 for rotation therewith, theshaft 236 extending out of the gear housing 238, as seen best in Figure3, and carrying on the inside of the housing 238, a pinion gear forrotation with shaft 236 and pulley 234. A worm gear is intermeshed withthe pinion gear which turns with shaft 234, and the worm gear isdisposed inside gear housing 238, and extends by means of shaft 362, asseen in Figure 3, outwardly, in a rightward direction.

From Figure 3 it is seen that the shaft 362 turns with the worm gearinside housing 238, and thus as the shaft 362 turns, the shaft 236 isturned at a reduced speed, and, depending upon the direction of rotationof shaft 362, the cable 438 is moved in either direction, and with itthe needle carrier and cam assembly to which it is clamped by means ofclamp 432 as seen in Figures 4 and 6. The gear housing 238 may bemounted to any fixed portions of the main housing so as to bestationary, such as by means of the brackets 351 and 352, and fromFigure 3, it is also seen that a drive motor 250, has its base 356secured to mounting or base 350 for movement therewith, the member 350being in turn pivotally carried on horizontal shaft 354 which in turn isjournaled in bearings carried by the bracket 352. In this manner, themotor 250 is movable pivotally about the axis of the supporting shaft354, as seen by the arrows 357, about a vertically oriented restposition.

The drive shaft of the motor 250, as seen at 253, carries a conicaldrive head 251 which may be covered with suitable friction material, ormay be formed of discs graduated along its length, and of "frictionmaterial, the

cone 251 being extended between the opposite conical faces of the drivenclutch rotor 360 which is mounted on the shaft 362 for rotation withshaft 362 of the gear worm. It is thus apparent that while the motorshaft 259 may rotate in one direction only, swinging the motor 250 tothe left as seen in Figure 3 will cause the shaft 362 to rotate in onedirection, and swinging the motor to the right, will cause a reversal ofthe motor effect, reversing the shaft 362, and thus moving the cable 438in the opposite direction. In this manner, it is possible easily tocause the needle carrier and cam assembly to move to the right toadvance the needle and form a stitch, and to move it back to the leftwhen the stitch is formed, withdrawing the needle, and at the same timereturning the crimpers to their lower positions on retraction of theelevating cam rails. This change is accomplished by means of the footpedals 302 and 306, seen in Figures 3 and 2. The pedals are pivoted at308 the pivot being carried stationary by the floor panel 340 whichextends rearwardly and upwardly as at 342, and thence is secured bymeans of brackets 348 'to the nearest stationary parts of the main framein any suitable manner.

The pedals 302 and 306 are pivoted to connecting rods 8 tiontransmitting bar 313, which in turn is pivoted at 314 to the stationarybracket 310 carried by the main frame. A connecting rod 324 is pivotedat its rightward end 318 to the extension 316 of bar 313, which in turnis pivotally connected at 330 to the swingable bar 328 which is pivotedto stationary bracket 326 also carried by a suitable Sta tionary part ofthe main frame or the like. Similarly a connecting rod 332 is pivoted atone end to the swingable bar 328, and at its other end is pivoted at 336to the motor 250. Thus by depressing pedal 302, the connecting rod 332moves to the left, and pushes the motor 250 in such a direction as tocause the needle carrier and cam assembly to move in a forward directionto form a stitch, while depressing pedal 306 causes the reversal ofdirection of movement of' the cable 438 and retraction or reverse motionof the needle and cam assembly.

Figure 10 shows the various parts by means of which the foot pedals arecaused to return to their rest positions, ready for a new cycle ofoperation.

Referring now to Figures 3, 4 and 15, it is seen that there is need forclamping the fabric of the necktie and its lining firmly at one endwhile the stitching process is to be carried out, and this isaccomplished by means of the fabric clamp jaw 400a, which is carried onthe bracket or plate 402a, the latter being in turn provided with anelongated slot 404a for the reception of one or more pins or bolts 406acarrying enlarged heads or washers 408a to retain them in contact withthe slot. An opening 410a is formed through the inclined clamping jaw400a to allow the needle 84 to extend freely therethrough, and it isseen that the plate 402a is provided with an abutment flange 412a fromwhich a spring guide rod 414a extends in a leftward direction. The rod414a is secured to the flange 412a, and is encircled axially by thespring 418a which tends to exert spreading bias between the flange 412aand the flange 420a on the bracket 422a, which in turn is secured byscrew 42411 to the needle carrier and cam assembly so as to movetherewith. As a result, when the operator is about to insert the necktielining and fabric into the machine for forming the stitching assembly,it is inserted into the opening 426a between the jaw 400a of the fabricclamp and the inclined stationary jaw 428a at the rearward end of thecrimper bar 58. When the operator causes the needle to commence 315 and317 with the opposite ends of the swingable moits stitching motion, itis seen that the fabric clamp jaw v 400a moves rightwardly to clamp thefabric firmly in and against jaw 428a. While the clamping motion may heautomatic, it is also seen that this clamping operation may be arrangedby suitable linkages for being carried out manually as the operatordesires, as by means of a foot pedal, hand pedal or the like, to actuatethe plate 402a In operating the machine, the operator thus first i11-serts the one end of the lining and necktie fabric in the fabric clampspace at 426a, and it is then firmly clamped therein. The rightward endsof the lining and necktie fabric are held by the operator, andarrangedto underlie the crimper bar 58, being held in the right hand ofthe operator and stretched out hoirzontally somewhat. Now then, as theoperator depresses the forward pedal, causing the threaded needle tomove forwardly, the cam also moves therewith, causing each of thecrimpers in turn to rise successively, commencing with the leftward endof the crimper bar which is nearest the fabric clamp. In this manner,the fabric to be stitched is firmly clamped in successive undulations inthe grooves of the crimper bar 58, without any stretching of the fabricor tearing thereof, the whole taking place without placing any stress onthe fabric at all, except a smooth forming of the undulations therein,just prior to the passage of the needle therethrough. When the needlehas thoroughly traversed the entire crimper bar and thus formed thestitch, the operator grasps the rightward end of the thread and holds itwhile he or she releases the forward pedal and depresses the reversepedal, causing the needle and cam assembly ap ease to retract to theleft. The needlevis retracted through opening 410a, and the operator cancut off the left end of the thread to a suitable length while stretchingout the fabric as it unorimps, and the jaw 400a being released, thenecktie is thus joined. The knotting is done later, or by anotheroperator, this being preferably the characteristic loose necktieassembly knot which has so many advantages in necktie construction.

A fabric guide post member 450 is provided for carrying a fabric guideassembly to smooth out and guide the lining and necktie fabric as it isbeing crimped. Such fabric guide assembly may consist of a singlenecktie guide arm 452, shown in Figures 2 and 16, and carried on anotched hub 454. The hub 454 hasa central vertical opening 456 throughwhich the post 450 extends, and has a spring pressed detent 458 movablein a bore 461 in a housing 464, under the influence of spring 460, andheld in place by plug 462. It is seen that the guide arm 452 is providedwith an elongated opening 466 through which the fabric to be stitched isextended, while the arm is disposed at right angles to the direction oftravel of the needle, that is as seen in full lines in Figure 16,smoothing out the fabric. At this time the detent 458 engages the notch458 and holds it in this position. When the post 450 moves to the end ofits desired travel with the motion of the needle carrier, the pin 470 onthe hub 454- strikes the stop lug 472 at the end of the groove 474, andis tilted in a counterclockwise direction, and swings the arm 452 toposition 466a for movement back to initial position without being in theway. When it gets back to initial position near jaw 400a, the operatorcan press the pedal 480, to cause shaft 482 on fixed plate 484, to pressagainst stud 470 on hub 454, returning arm 452 to outstretched full lineposition.

Referring now to Figures 21, 22 and 23, it is seen that here is shown amodified form of fabric guide which is continuously adjustable to centerand guide the two fabrics, namely the necktie casing fabric and linerwhich are to be stitched together in this characteristic loose stitchmanner. As shown, there is a centralizer control bar 500 which may bemade of suitable material, such as steel, plastic or the like, ofsuitable strength, and has its edges 501 and 503 taperedas shown, or inany suitable manner, to suit the cut of the fabric to be centralized,the taper shown being only one example. By means-f screws 504 extendingthrough openings in the several crimper bar support arms or brackets 54,and bushings 502, the centralizer control bar is mounted in positionbeneath the brackets 54 in the manner illustrated, inwardly of thecrimper bar 58 shown by itself in Figure 22. The carrier stud or post450 extends upwardly as shown, and has seated pivotally thereon thefabric guide base or hub 506, which has a bottom flange 508 with areduced neck 510 extending into the integral top flange 512 which inturn is integral with the upstanding flange 514 at right angles theretoas seen best in Figure 23.

The fabric guide body 516 is mounted on the upright flange 514 by meansof the screws 520 extending through the wall 522 of the fabric guidebody 516, and as shown, the wall 522 extends downwardly to integralbottom wall 524 which is bent upwards as shown in Figures 23 and 22 toform upstanding wall 526, and similarly, the channel 528 is closed byend wall 530. An elongated opening 532 is formed in the wall 522 as seenbest in Figure 22, to receive one of the two fabric sheets which are tobe centralized, smoothed out, and guided through the machine as thefabric guide assembly passes therealong during the stitch formingoperation. A pair of inner and outer centralizing members 534 and 536are movable in the channel 528 left and right as seen in Figure 22, soas to vary the spacing between their upstanding guide jaws 538 and 540and thus vary the distance by which the lower opening or guide slot 542opens or closes, in accordance with the taper of the member 500. Toaccomplish this, the inner centralizing member 534. extends rightwardlyas seen in Figure 22 in L-shape to come just below the upright leg 542thereof, which thus extends upwardly and carries at its upper end theguide roller 544 which thus rolls along the edge 501 of the template orcentralizer control bar 500. Similarly the outer centralizing member 536has its lower web 546 extending rightwardly in the channel 528 as seenin Figure 22, to just below the other roller 548, extending upwardly asshown so that the roller 548 is pivotally carried on the upper end ofthe upstanding leg 550 of member 536. The two upstanding legs 550 and542 have outstanding pins 552 movable therewith, which are pulled towardeach other by th tension spring 554, so that the rollers 544 and 548 arekept in constant contact with the edges 501 and 503 of the member 500,varying their spacing as the taper of the member 500 varies, and thusvarying the spacing between the jaws 538 and 540 defining the space 542;thereby continuously centralizing the fabric which extends therethrough,and thus properly centralizing the stitch formed.

It is thus apparent that the modified form of cloth guide in Figures 21to 23 is quite versatile, and adjustable automatically to center anytype of necktie assembly fabrics, without the intervention of theoperator, or any danger to his or her fingers during the stitchingoperation. Further, by adjusting the curvature of the taper or othercontour of the member 500, any desirable shape of fabric contour may becentered automatically. The hub base flange 506 has a centering notch550 formed therein as seen in Figure 21, to engage with the springpressed detent 552, thus bringing the arm 516 into its extended positionduring the formation of the stitch, so that it extends outwardly overthe crimpers during the stitching pass as shown in full lines in Figure21. At the end of the stroke, it is desirable to swing the arm 516counterclockwise through ninety degrees so that it is parallel to themember 500, and this is readily accomplished by providing another notch533 in flange 506. shown in Figure 21, to engage the member 552 when itis swung on pin 450 to the right.

Referring to Figures 3, 11 and 10, it is seen that here is shown indetail the pedal return linkages and .means, whereby the pedals 302 and306 are returned automatically to neutral positions as the machineoperates, as a result of the movement of the post 450. As shown, theplate 323 has integral with it the depending cam ears 319 and 321 whichhave their inner surfaces inclined upwardly convergently as seen inFigure 10. The platel310 is relatively stationary, and has pivotallydepending therefrom the bell crank lever 313, with end pivots 315 and317 carrying pull rods 302 and 304, the pivots 315 and 317 extending tothe paths of the movement of the cam ears 319 and 321. The plate 323 hasslots 327 and 331 formed therein to receive the shafts of the fixed pins329 and 333, to permit limited left and right sidewise motion of theplate 323 as seen in Figure 10. The plate 323 has a top flange 325integral therewith, and carrying upstanding pins 327 and 329 at its leftand right ends respectively, as seen in Figure 10, which pins are in thepath of movement of the base of post 450. As a result, the post 450,when it moves to the left as seen in Figure 10, will push pin 327 to theleft, so that cam ear 321 will bear against pivot 317 and restore rod304 and its pedal to neutral position. Similarly, post 450, when itmoves to the right, as seen in Figure 10, will engage pin 329, and pushplate 323 and ear 319 to the right, thus camming pivot 315 to the right,and restoring rod 302 and its pedal to neutral positions. In thismanner, it is seen that the left and rightward travel of post 450automatically re'- stores the pedals to their neutral positions at theend of its respective left and right strokes, rendering it unnecessaryfor the operator to keep this in mind at all.

As seen in Figures 21 to 23, at the ends of the travel" of the member516,-that is at both ends of member 500, the rollers 548 and 544 arebrought into alignment with the axis of the member 500 preferably, andby any suitable construction, the members 548 and 544 may be depressibleslightly to allow them to pass under the member 500. Similarly, by anysuitable means, the member 500 may be supported resiliently, in avertical direction, as by making the bushings 502 in the form ofyieldable cylindrical coil springs or the like, so as to yieldvertically to allow passage of the rollers when needed. According toanother form of construction, it is seen that when the assembly which ispivoted on post 450 is swung to the right as seen in Figure 21, the tworollers 544 and 548 move to a position behind the edge 501 of member500, and are thus clear thereof and free to move therealong in aleftward direction to initial position.

As thus described, it is easily possible to assemble the necktie body orouter covering and the liner in one composite unit with the wellknownloose stitching of the necktie body to the liner in which they aresecured together securely yet resiliently. Such construction isdescribed in detail in the U. S. Patents No. 1,447,090, and 1,448,453,to Jesse E. Langsdorf, to which reference is made for further details ofsuch construction 'of neckties. The present machine is of particularutility in fabricating such neckties, with their typical loose stitchingby a single longitudinal thread knotted at both ends in the Langsdorfmanner, the knots being formed separately after the stitching is formed.In Figures 8 and 9, at 114 is indicated the material through which theneedle 84 is to penetrate with its thread 178 through the undulations toform the typical Langsdorf loose stitch of the necktie. However, whilefor clarity due to space limitations, 114 is not shown divided, it isactually two fabric layers such as 11411 and 114b, shown in Figure 8,which indicate the necktie outer casing or body, and the liner, the twobeing stitched losely together longitudinally in the Langsdorf manner,as shown in the above mentioned patents, and as is well known in theart, and then the end knots are formed after the stitching series isformed. This makes for a good, strong, resilient necktie construction,both the necktie outer casing and the liner being perferably cut on thebias, as described in the Langsdorf patents mentioned above.

Although I have described my invention in a preferred form in specificterms, it will be understood that this is only one example, and thatvarious changes may be made in size, shape, materials and arrangementwithout departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as claimed.

I claim:

1. A sewing device comprising first body means formed with a pluralityof mutually parallel ribs projecting out of one surface thereof and withmutually parallel grooves spacing adjacent ribs, a plurality of crimperelements formed with groove engaging end portions for engaging saidmutually parallel grooves intermediate said ribs of said first bodymeans, rail means engaging said crimper elements for supporting thesame, cam means carried by said rail means and constructed and arrangedfor moving said crimper elements into and out of engagement of theirgroove engaging end portions with said grooves, so as to formundulations in any sheet material disposed therebetween, and needlepassage means constructed and arranged in said ribs and said crimperelements for allowing passage of a needle therethrough, and when theneedle is threaded to form a stitch therethrough, whereby a plurality oflayers of sheet material thus undulated by interengagement of saidcrimper elements with said grooves, is threaded by said needle upon asingle pass of the needle through all the undulations thus formed, aneedle carrier frame, a needle having its rearward end engaged in andmovable with said frame,

said frame being slidable in said machine so as to carry the pointed endof said needle wholly through said needle passageway to advancedposition, and to move rearwardly to carry said pointed end of saidneedle out of said needle passageway to retracted position, motor means,and cable means coupling said motor means to said needle carrier frameand constructed and arranged so as to move said frame both in advancingmovement, and in the retracting movement.

2. A sewing device comprising first body means formed with a pluralityof mutually parallel ribs projecting out of one surface thereof and withmutually parallel grooves spacing adjacent ribs, a plurality of crimperelements formed with groove engaging end portions for engaging saidmutually parallel grooves intermediate said ribs of said first bodymeans, rail means engaging said crimper elements for supporting thesame, cam means carried by said rail means and constructed and arrangedfor moving said crimper elements into and out of engagement of theirgroove engaging end portions with said grooves, so as to formundulations in any sheet material disposed therebetween, and needlepassage means constructed and arranged in said ribs and said crimperelements for allowing passage of a needle therethrough, and when theneedle is threaded to form a stitch therethrough, Whereby a plurality oflayers of sheet material thus undulated by interengagement of saidcrimper elements with said grooves, is threaded by said needle upon asingle pass of the needle through all the undulations thus formed, aneedle carrier frame, a needle having its rearward end engaged in andmovable with said frame, said frame being slidable in said machine so asto carry the pointed end of said needle wholly through said needlepassageway to advanced position, and to move rearwardly to carry saidpointed end of said needle out of said needle passageway to retractedposition, motor means, and cable means coupling said motor means to saidneedle carrier frame and constructed and arranged so as to move saidframe both in advancing movement, and in the retracting movement, amechanical direction changing means coupling said motor means with saidcable means, whereby, as desired, the operator may change the directionof movement of said needle, and wherein said rail means is carried bysaid needle carrier frame for movement therewith, and said cam means ismovable with and carried by said rail means, so that upon movement ofsaid cam means to move said crimper elements into engagement with saidgrooves for undulating said layers of fabric to be stitched, said needleis thereupon advanced to penetrate said undulated layers of fabric tostitch the same, and a supply of thread for feeding said needle asneeded.

3. A sewing device comprising first body means formed with a pluralityof mutually parallel ribs projecting out of one surface thereof and withmutually parallel grooves spacing adjacent ribs, a plurality of crimperelements formed with groove engaging end portions for engaging saidmutually parallel grooves intermediate said ribs of said first bodymeans, rail means engaging said crimper elements for supporting thesame, cam means carried by said rail means and constructed and arrangedfor moving said crimper elements into and out of engagement of theirgroove engaging end portions with said grooves, so as to formundulations in any sheet material disposed therebetween, and needlepassage means constructed and arranged in said ribs and said crimperelements for allowing passage of a needle therethrough, and when theneedle is threaded to form a stitch therethrough, whereby a plurality oflayers of sheet material thus undulated by interengagement of saidcrimper elements with said grooves, is threaded by said needle upon asingle pass of the needle through all the undulations thus formed, aneedle carrier frame, a needle having its rearward end engaged in andmovable with said frame, said frame being slidable in said machine so asto carry the pointed end of said needle wholly through 13 said needlepassageway to advanced position, and to move rearwardly to carry saidpointed end of said needle out of said needle passageway to retractedposition, motor means, and cable means coupling said motor means to saidneedle carrier frame and constructed and arranged so as to move saidframe both in advancing movement, and in the retracting movement, saidneedle carrierframe means comprises a pair of side walls, a needlecarrier support carried by said side walls, a needle clamp carried bysaid needle carrier support for securely grasping the rearward end of aneedle, a plurality of cam rails carried by said pair of side walls formovement therewith, said cam rails being shaped for elevating saidcrimper elements into engagement with said grooves sequentially, theforward end of said needle being arranged to penetrate the undulatedlayers of necktie casing and lining following the formation ofundulations therein, so .as to stitch the same in the Lang'sdorf loosestitch construction, whereby, with the forward end of said thread heldstationary, upon f traction of said needle said stitches remain in saidfabric layers, and upon said retraction, said cam rails retract andallow said crimper elements to assume initial lower positions, allowingsaid necktie layers to be pulled outwardly intoplanar disposition, withsaid stitching remaintaining therein.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS638,004 Bultzingslowen Nov. 28, 1899 659,617 Bultzingslowen Oct. 9, 19002,275,457 Newman Mar. 10, 1942 2,349,783 Zimmer May 23, 1944 2,372,224Neumair et a1. Mar. 27, 1945 2,387,282 Neumair et al. Oct. 23, 19452,409,045 Johnson et a1. Oct. 8, 1946 2,635,570 Honig et al Apr. 25,1953 UNITED, STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent N02,858,784 November 4, 1958 Audrey W, Orr

It is hereby certified that error appears in the-printed specificationof the above numbered patent requiring correction and that the saidLetters Patent should read as corrected below.

Column 2, line 45, for "within" read Without column 7, line 66, after"change" insert of motion column 14, lines '7 and 8, for "remaintaining"read remaining Signed and sealed this 3rd day of February 1959 SEAL)ttest:

KARL H. AXLINE ROBERT C. WATSON Attesting Officer Commissioner ofPatents

